-Shel Silverstein-
(Follow this Link for the EPA's paper on how to create and maintain a worm farm.)
I raise "Red Wigglers", they are among the best composting worms from my experience and the input I have gleaned from other sources. I began three years ago, my first attempt was a dismal failure, I was wiped out by mice. That is one issue with earthworms, they are a universal food source for many animals. I have thousands of worms in each of my wood raised bed garden boxes, critters dig for them. I don't know if the Possums, Skunks, and Racoons are able to hear the wigglers chomping away or if they just know to dig and they will find them. As many as they consume I do not notice a reduction in the population, there are still many worms in each spadeful of compost. In the garden bins are "European Nightcrawlers", and "Red Wigglers", I mixed them for a purpose. The Red Wigglers reside in the layer of organic debris which lies above the completely decomposed material, and below the partially broken down leaves. I use straw over the leaves to help control weeds, so the layer is Straw-partially decomposed material-compost. European Nightcrawlers are tunnel constructors, rising to the surface at night to feed they will follow the burrows down to their dens. Nightcrawlers carve out lairs as deep as six feet under the surface. They carry organic material down to them, aeriating the vegetable beds and distributing compost throughout the box. I do not harvest worms, or castings from these boxes, it creates a "natural" environment for the worms and a great medium to grow plants in.
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| A stock photo of the worm factory 360. The ends are cut out from this example to show how it works inside. |
The plastic storage bins are much the same, although they are on a smaller scale, the goal is to emulate the natural environment as closely as possible. I prefer the 18-inch plastic totes, I am handicapped and I have found any larger bin is too heavy for me to handle when it comes time to harvest the castings. We must realize when a farm is started that worm manure is heavy, determining how much weight a person can handle is important. I have found the 18-inch bins weigh about 50 pounds when 3/4 full of castings.
One plastic bin is initially needed, the addition of a second one will be needed 60-90 days after the successful beginning of the farm.
In order to build them these tools will need to be gathered together:
1) Electric Drill Motor
2) 1/4 inch drill "bit"
3) A sharpie type of marker, black is best.
4) A straight edge or yardstick, at least 20 inches long.
5) Measuring tape, or use the yardstick.
Set the new box on a flat surface, the floor or a table, it's important to be comfortable, don't choose a rickety old something to perform work on. Place the plastic tote "bottom-up" after removing the lid. Measure 3 inches from each edge of the box bottom and draw a line parallel to the sides and ends. On each of the long sides mark 5 equal spaces then connect the marks with a line, on the short ends repeat with 4 equal divisions. There should be a grid with 20 places where the lines intersect, at each of these intersections drill a 1/4" hole. The bottom is completed, now lay the bin on its side.
Scribe a line 3 inches from the bottom, and 3 inches from the top repeat on the ends and the far side of the bin. Starting in the corner place the first mark, then measure the length of the box, placemarks equally spaced on each line. A note of encouragement, we are not shooting for perfection, in fact, measuring is not even needed if aesthetics are not the desired outcome. Most of the time no one will notice if the hole is off by even a large amount. All of these holes are for maintaining a flow of air through the box. Drill a 1/4 inch hole at each mark on the lines, all around the top and bottom. The box is now completed for holes, next is the last step. Lay the top flat on the working surface setting the box to one side. Lay out the grid on the top to match the bottom as closely as possible, it is desirable to have at least 20 holes in each the top and the bottom, more is better. The final step is to remove the plastic "burrs" left on the inside of each hole by the drill, not only will they cut the worms but they may be sharp enough cut our fingers as well. Remove them with sandpaper, a pocket knife, or a paint scraper, the object is to remove them. The box is complete and ready to be set up with bedding, food, and finally after 5 days the worms.
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| The bottom of the bin laid out ready for the holes to be drilled. |
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| The top of the bin laid out ready for the holes to be drilled. |
To prepare the box for the introduction of the worms we need to gather together:
1) One piece of cardboard large enough to cover the bottom of the box, and another large enough to cover the top. The top cardboard will be larger, the bin is tapered out from the bottom.
2) One gallon of garden compost, store-bought organic compost will work fine, stay away from additives.
3) A combination of these materials to equal 3 gallons, 2-1/2 gallons of dry leaves, a newspaper some shredded some torn into 1/2 inch pieces, cardboard cut into 1-inch squares (torn is fine). It is not set in stone, flowers, vegetable leaves, corn husks, straw (it takes forever to decompose), fern leaves, and I also use Ice Plant.
4) 2 slats of wood 18 inches long x 1-2 inches wide and thick. 4 medicine bottles, building blocks, or PVC pipe will work as well.
Cut one piece of cardboard to cover the entire bottom of the box, this is the only time this will be done. We do this to keep the worms from crawling out of the bottom, it is a precautionary measure. It doesn't seem to make much sense to cover the air holes on the bottom, but that is why we put holes along the bottom and top edges. Spread the one gallon of compost equally across the bottom cardboard, then moisten it, not dripping mud wet, just moist. Mix the bedding material in a bucket or other vessel, add water to it as well, wet versus moist is best. Place a small amount of worm food in the center of the box bottom, on top of the compost, (a detailed list of food is at the end of the article). Spread the bedding over the top of the compost, and worm food, four to six inches of bedding is required. We now lay the wood slats on the deck, or shelf where ever the bin will reside. The slats are to allow air to flow from the bottom to the top through the bin, any material may be used as long as it is strong enough to support the box. I have used empty medicine bottles, building blocks or PVC piping may also be used. Now is the time to order your worms, they will be at your doorstep in 3-5 days which will allow the food to decompose and the moisture level of the bedding to even out. When they arrive they will be "balled" up together, this is how they deal with stress. Do not pull them apart, simply set them on top of the bedding and cover them. Do not disturb them for several days, they need to acclimate to their new environment. Feed them again when all or most of the food has been consumed, it will take about a week. Check the worms after 3 days, the food may be consumed if so add some more. If the food has not been eaten check again the next day, add more if it's mostly gone.
(Follow this Link to my youtube video on how to construct a worm bin)
Construct a second bin identical to the first, it will be used when the first bin is filled 3/4 of the height with castings and some uneaten bedding. Making certain the cardboard is not laid across the bottom of box #2, remove the lid on #1 bin and slide #2 into it allowing the bottom to rest on the top of the uneaten bedding. Prepare box #2 with bedding and compost as we did #1, making sure everything is moist place a good quantity of food under the bedding. Place a piece of wet cardboard on the top of the bedding in box #2 then replace the lid. The worms will begin to migrate up into the second bin. After the food is consumed in the lower box they will move in rapidly. Give them time, it takes 3-4 weeks for the majority to move up, at that time the remainder may be moved manually from #1 to #2.
There are several ways to get worms for your farm:
* If you purchase a commercially available farm some include a "voucher", follow the directions included.
* Order worms by mail, there are several suppliers on the internet.
* Local worm farms, there are more around than we are aware of, they are also on the internet.
* Get them from a friend, I set up a lot of worm farms for people.
* Bait shop worms, they are OK, most bait worms are at the end of their lives but are still capable of laying eggs. Worm life expectancy is about one year.
* Local recycling programs, they will know local worm farmers.
It is advisable to keep bedding ready to add to the bin, I have another 18-inch tote I keep filled with prepared bedding and add some every week.
Listed below is more acceptable bedding materials:
* Tree leaves, I use a lot of them, in fact, my bedding is 90% leaves. All are not usable avoid these, Green Bay Leaves, Eucalyptus Leaves, Coniferous needles and Citrus Leaves. I have seen good results from Pecan and Black Walnut leaves, I suspect any fruit or nut tree leaves will be great.
* Cardboard, use bare cardboard only, the ink of the silk screening process will harm the worms, that's the shiny information on the exterior of the box. Remove all staples, tape, and plastic address label pockets. Rip it into 1-inch pieces, or cut it with scissors.
* Paper, newspaper, printer paper, caution an excessive amount of shredded paper has a tendency to clump up, it is advisable to include torn up pieces along with the shredded. I have an old paper cutter I use, it works well with my arthritic hands.
* Peanut shells unsalted, as with all things worms salt is an absolute no-no, it will dry the little guy's out.
* Coffee Grounds spread throughout the bedding with the filters. It is not only for bedding the grounds are good for food as well.
* Garden waste flowers, ice plant trimmings, cactus, artichoke leaves, zucchini leaves, and any vegetable leaves, stalks and underdeveloped fruit.
* Cocoanut Coir is available in most nurseries and big box stores, it makes great bedding material and if you live in an area that is devoid of other material, it may be advisable to keep a supply on hand.
* Peat Moss like Cocoanut Coir it is another great bedding material. If there is a shortcoming it is that Coir and Peat Moss will be eaten by the worms but there is little if any nutritional value in it. In other words, the worms will not gain length or weight.
* Saw Dust, I stay clear of unless I know for certain it is not from treated wood, painted or stained wood.
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| This is my leaf tower, however, this one is filled with straw. There are others filled with leaves I use during the summer. |
Following is a short list of food:
# Tea bags and tea, without the staples.
# Fruit cores, peels, and flowers
# Pasta, Bread, Cereals
# Oatmeal, cornmeal (unsalted)
# All Vegetables
# Squash
# Bananas'
Foods to avoid:
* Citrus,
* Hot Peppers
* Meat, Bones, and Grease
* Onions, they don't like them.
* Dairy products
* Garlic
Cover the food with at least 4-6 inches of bedding, it serves to keep the fruit flies out and controls odors.
Eggshells are a staple in the bedding I put together, it performs double duty. One it controls the acidity of the bed, and secondly, the worms eat them for use in their crops. Worms like birds have a crop to aid in digesting their food. Mineral dust is included in some commercially available farms for the same purpose, use in their crops, they also get grit from leaves. First-year growth has a lot of silica in it, also leaves merely by the fact they are on the ground pick up more dust and grit.
Now we are engaged in a learning curve, reading, and asking questions are all important, read forums and blogs. There is a lot of information you will pick up on as the farm grows, a lot happens in a worm farm. There are signs that will be displayed for both a healthy and unhealthy colony, the presence of eggs, the appearance of the worms, and the smells coming from the bin are all important. Keep your farm moist, don't disturb the worms an excessive amount, and keep the lids on to keep the mice out.
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| Place spacers of any material that will create an air space below the bin to allow air to flow from bottom to top. |
I raise worms for several reasons, I have achieved zero kitchen waste, castings for fertilizer and making worm tea. I also use most of the cardboard coming into the house, in fact, I gather more from the neighbors. I use the cardboard in my raised bed garden boxes as well. I use all of the leaves that fall from my trees, and a lot of them from my neighbors, I store them in hog wire columns to use over the summer. It is amazing to me the amount of organic material, paper, and cardboard the Red Wigglers consume. It's interesting also how attached I have become to them, I have a real solid sense of responsibility towards them.
Thank you for reading and sharing this article, if you have a comment or question leave it in the comments. It's an interesting and rewarding activity to be involved in, I have heard it said that being a little eccentric is almost a pre-qualifier for a Worm Farmer. I know one thing for a fact, the plants react wonderfully to it when placed in the soil.
jacquesandkate emergencykitsplus.com
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