The rainy season starts November 1,open sand bag dike construction season too, here's how to build them

This is a properly constructed sandbag dike.

November 1st is the beginning of the rainy season in the Western United States, the rain is the primary driver of most of our Catastrophic natural events. The winter rains soak the ground that was exposed during the past summer's wildfires causing mudslides. Swollen creeks from run-off rushing down steep mountainsides slam into structures, and bridges causing some to collapse. All of that water runs into larger waterways swelling them to flood stage, overflowing their banks and inundating entire cities. Massive amounts of water run off the mountains heading for the flatlands, and the reservoirs.  The large bodies of water are held back by massive dams that were built for flood control and irrigation.

This time of year the dams release water to make room for the incoming deluge. Actually, the amount of water we will be able to store behind them is an unknown, but room must be made. Some years the lost water will not be replaced, other years as occurred during the winter of 2016-2017 more water is collected than the dams can handle. The highest dam in the United States, Oroville nearly experienced a collapsed spillway after an unexpected amount of moisture filled it to overcapacity. During Hurricane Harvey Houston Texas released water from a flood control dam, the spillway directed the water into a densely populated sub-division. Much of the same occurred in San Jose, the Anderson Dam filled to over capacity. Overflowing its banks that overflow spread into a residential area as well. Heavy rains this past summer that took place on the Eastern Seaboard caused flooding of numerous Cities, some repeatedly. One of the most effective methods to deal with the inundation is to construct sandbag dikes, walls, and temporary diversion channels.

Sand in a burlap or polypropylene sack is the basic sandbag. Used for flood control, military bulwarks and temporary traffic diverters they are an excellent choice. Construction of Levees, berms, dikes, and erosion control are all frequent uses of the heavy loaded bags. It takes a lot of them to build a successful structure, experience in building them is a real plus. Many local governments will furnish the bags and the sand, and we supply the labor.  Any soil will work in a sandbag, however a mixture of 1:10 cement to sand if available works best, soil heavy in clay is acceptable as well, however it is difficult to work with. Building a sandbag structure may appear to be a mundane simple task, looks are deceiving. Planning, organization, and leadership are all necessary to construct a berm that is strong and effective.

(Follow this Link to read the Army Corps of Engineers pamphlet on sandbagging techniques.)

The construction usually takes place under stress, a prediction of flooding is broadcast and the location of sandbagging stations are announced and we are off to the races. The amount of time, how much daylight we have left, and how many hours of darkness are just a few of the factors included in the formula for building a diversion. Correctly filled bags and proper stacking of the components are what stands between saving our structures or not.

Notice the plastic sheeting weaving throughout the first course.

A photo of a nicely constructed sandbag dike.

The bags are a standard size, 13 inches x 34 inches, (33 cm x 86.36 cm), it has been established that these dimensions are the most efficient for the use of sand and will not become overly heavy. Filling the sacks 1/2 to 3/4 full will keep them below 50 pounds. Depending upon the moisture content of the sand they should weigh closer to 35 pounds, handling several hundred will get heavy. It takes two people to fill them, one holding the bag and another shoveling, work methodically and carefully. Long pants, gloves, goggles, and boots are the preferred attire, this is not a job for sandals or flip-flops. A 1/2 ton pickup truck is able to carry 33 bags with a weight of 30 pounds each. A team of people building the wall while another team fills bags is part of a successful plan.

Pack the sandbags loosely while filling, do not seal the bags by tying or sewing them shut, they will hold each other closed. Not securing the open end makes placing the bags easier as there is room for the filler to shift and form as it needs to fit tightly. Handle the bags with caution, here are a few tips to remain as safe as possible:

1) Those of us with medical conditions should stay clear, it's not a task for back backs, bum hips, or heart conditions, let the young people do it. I know, I want to help with everything also, but we need to have enough self-awareness to know our limitations.

2) Wear our protective equipment, and take it seriously, fudging will only hurt ourselves.

3) Be sure there are plenty of porta-potties and ample water, regular water breaks should rule the day.

4) Watch for heavy equipment, be aware of our surroundings there are experienced people working around inexperienced people, it's not always a good combination.

5) Flood water is dangerous, it is potentially toxic, it is contaminated with we don't know what, the flow and currents change, beware of the junk being washed downstream. There will be everything from tree trunks to dead animals. It is not only prudent to keep an eye out for debris but it could save someone from injury or worse.

6) Use good lifting methods when handling the sandbags, do not bend more than 20 degrees in any direction. Lift with our knees bent straightening them as we rise with it in our hands. Keep the sandbags close to the body when carrying and hold them below the shoulders. Don't stretch the arms out straight when handing them off, the person receiving it should accept them as close to the body as possible.

Proper lifting technique, don't hurt yourself.

7) When turning or pivoting be aware not to twist the back, it is a better practice to pivot the feet.

8) Don't toss the sandbags, hand them off in a controlled manner. When in line to pass them face one another standing no further than two feet apart; It may be a better plan to use wheelbarrows if they are available.

Taking all of that into account now it's time to start constructing a sandbag wall, dike or berm. 

* Choose a location, a few places not to chose: septic field, swampy soil, loose gravel, or an area covered with snow or ice. It should be located at least 8 feet from a building foundation, we want the room to move between the dike and the house on dry land. A handy rule of thumb is to make the base two feet wider than the estimated height.

* Determine the height of the berm before the first bag is laid down, it will determine the width of the base. The dike needs at least two feet of height above the high water mark. If the water is expected to reach 5 feet, a 7-foot high structure will have to be built. Adding an extra bag to the top will allow for compaction of the sand and bags after they get soaked. A 6-foot high wall would actually need four inches of compaction allowance, it is far easier to merely add one more course of bags.

* The dikes must be at a minimum two feet across at the top of the properly constructed wall. that is the reason for the increase in the width of the base. For a structure higher than six feet, ask for input from a local authority, if none are available building it higher and wider is a proper tact. One cubic yard of water weighs 1700 pounds, almost a ton, it is easily capable of knocking the largest person over and washing them away.

Proper construction aids strength:

First to reduce the leakage of water through the dike polyethylene sheeting six mils thick x ten feet wide is woven between the bags on the waterside. Be careful not to rip or puncture the sheeting, it needs to lay on the ground under the first layer of bags extending to the outside of the stack.

The next task is to lay the first course, or layer parallel to the direction of the water flow, place the open end of the bag towards the center of the berm. Lap the second bag over the empty end of the preceding bag to keep it closed. Tamp down the sandbags to set them in place, make the top level it will aid in keeping the stack neat and orderly. Stagger the sacks in the same manner as laying bricks, it builds strength into the arrangement.

The bag on the left is described in this article, but do not tie them as this view shows. 

Third, the next course of bags must lay perpendicular to the one under it tying them together, the same pattern is used when loading pallets with bags of commodities. Pack this layer in as well, remembering to keep the tops as flat as possible. Alternate each course in this manner, the course above must be perpendicular to the one below. (I am aware I repeated myself, of all the practices that are critical this is the most important.)

Then offset each course 1/4 of the length of the bag, if the bag is 34 inches long back off the edge 8-1/2-9 inches. (22 cm-22.86 cm) the stack will resemble steps like on the Pyramids of Giza. Continue to weave the plastic sheeting as the courses are added, if more sheeting is needed we then need to overlap them by a minimum of 2 feet.

Properly stacked each course must be perpendicular to the one below it.

Completing the wall it is likely water will seep through the levee, how much depends on how high the water is, greater height creates more pressure. Keeping pumps on the "dry" side of the dike with enough fuel and oil available for extended use.

The same precautions should be adhered to when the time comes to take the dike apart, the sand may be used in sandboxes, landscaping or in the garden. The bags may be suitable for trash storing purposes, there is no need to store full sandbags, that defies reasoning.


Don't use bales of straw or hay in the construction, they will merely wash away and water will go right through them. A dike is temporarily constructed for a one time use to direct water, not totally dam it up. It will stop the flow completely for a while, however, they wear out rapidly and need our full-time attention. If a longer lasting dike is needed due to recurring flooding a permanent structure should be built. A permanent structure can be an elaborate cement wall or a hand dug ditch. The intent is to keep the water from the space you want to protect, keeping in mind the basic intent and the direction the water flows a good solid temporary or permanent flood control dike is easily in our future if the need arises.

Thanks for reading and sharing this blog, leave a comment with a story, question, or start a conversation. For some of us, a flood is a real possibility, for others, it isn't, but the knowledge of how to lay sandbags is important in our quest to become as self-reliant as we can possibly be.


Thanks again jacqueslebec  EmergencyKitsPlus.com

Roadside breakdowns how much preparation do we need to make? Read on for what to think about before the trip.

It's lonely in the middle of nowhere.

I've been reading articles in the newspaper and online lately that more and more describe people being stranded in their cars. It should not come as a surprise with the way vehicles are built we would feel totally secure inside of them. They are constructed in a way which enables them to be almost completely silent inside, nice smooth ride, no road noise - man I'm falling asleep just thinking about it. As comfortable and nice as they are, breakdowns are still possible. As if a vehicle breakdown is not bad enough there have been several incidences this year concerning car breakdowns and wildfires. Naturally, when we experience one the normal reaction is pull off the road as far as possible, most notably when the incident takes place on a busy road or highway. Parking on or near high dry weeds may start a fire when the catalytic converter is blinded, (blocked), they reach a temperature that causes the outer skin to become red-hot. Steel, to become that hot the temperature is in the plus 1200 F (649 C), easily capable of igniting dry brush.

While living in a remote area, (out in the country), or if we traverse it on a regular basis our chances of a breakdown are not increased, however, if one does occur there are other situations we should give some thought to. One in particular, and I taught myself to do this when approaching a turn-off or wide spot in the road to park, look at the potential parking spot. Look it over as closely as you can, we are looking for snakes. Dawn and Dusk are the most common time for them to approach roads to warm their bodies and prepare for the day or a night of hunting. When a car parks over one they have a tendency to strike the first thing they see. I don't want that to be my leg, it does happen more often than we like to think.

Animals are a cause for concern, livestock, Cattle, Horses, and Dogs. Driving a dark isolated road with no moon makes it hard to see what lies ahead. A collision with a 1500 pound animal many times proves to be fatal to the driver when they break through the windscreen and land in the drivers' lap. Caution is the rule, they are difficult to avoid when going around a blind bend, even when driving the speed limit.

It is not just Dogs and Cattle, Deer are large animals as well.

Dogs and other domestic pets are a bit different than large animals, no-one wants to hit someone's pet, so we swerve to avoid them. One of our daughters was driving through a desolate stretch of farmland. The State Highway had an irrigation canal on each side of it. Suddenly a large dog ran in front of her, she swerved to avoid it and landed top down in the 8-foot deep water. She is a very resourceful person, she thinks clearly under stress. Not having any tools to punch a window out she kicked the rear windscreen out with her feet. She was not injured badly, but it earned her a trip to the hospital, most cars that land in waterways has no survivors. Unfortunately, if there is not the time to come to a complete stop the only alternative is to hit the animal.

Regardless of what the incident is, a breakdown, accident, or natural disaster while on the highway it is no day in the park. Of all the places we need to have at least minimum survival supplies is in the trunk of each vehicle. Keeping basic supplies in the trunk is not a difficult task, whether constructing it ourselves or purchasing a commercially prepared kit the main point is to be sure it is loaded with usable items. Many items to stock a kit ourselves are available at the discount stores (the Dollar Store), second-hand stores (Goodwill), and big box hardware stores. Items essential to a roadside emergency kit are plenty of water, a flashlight, jumper cables and a fire extinguisher made for a vehicle fire. The kit should supply your needs for a period of at least 3 days, for however many people are with you. Breakdowns could be anything from a flat tire to complete destruction of the vehicle, or worse yet a road washout that keeps us stranded for several days. Each kit needs to fill our personal needs. A commercial kit should be checked over adding items to achieve that, a self-constructed kit should follow the list that is created when it is planned.

When traveling in or through the mountains we should be especially cautious by packing a bag customized to the trip, allowing for the number of people. In the kit some means of keeping warm, blankets, a small heater (a propane lantern works well), lots of water, high-calorie food and jumper cables. Make sure to have socks, undergarments, at least one jacket, a pair of gloves and a warm hat. A wind-up radio capable of charging a cell phone, a method of signaling (flashlights work,), a means to start a fire, some rope, and a tarp. Depending on the location and the degree of danger, most of the time it is best to stay with your vehicle.

Two of my sisters decided to go on a road trip to California to visit me, they were traveling from my home state of Minnesota. By the time they got to the western South Dakota border they realized the entire west was on fire causing them to go back home, we never know what we will run into.

They don't look bad, but most important a hat is a lifesaver while
in the hot sun.

A trip in the desert is equal to winter travel, except it is hot. I've lived in the North during blizzards and being snowed in, I've also lived in the desert during the summer. When the temperature reached 126 degrees F, (52.22 C) that is just as hot as the North was cold when I left Minnesota during a blizzard -30 F. (-34.44 C) Both extremes are just as disabling as the other. The same items should be in a desert kit as the snow vehicle kit, a jacket will be needed, the desert can be blazing hot during the day and cold enough to form ice overnight. A method to provide shade is a must-have, as is doubling up on the water. Clothing that covers the entire body, sun blocker and a wide-brimmed hat are lifesavers when the sun is beating down at 12 noon. Sandstorms are a hazard also when caught in one, pull over to the side of the road and stay there. Vehicle pile-ups occur during most of them, some include dozens of cars.

The desert has hazards that are not shared with the cold, or temperate climates. Snakes, bugs and rapid dehydration are part of the list. When stranded in the desert, it is advisable to seek shade or construct it with a tarp and rope that is in your kit, drink lot's of water, we can live longer with no food than no water. Don't walk out, survival is nearly impossible when a great distance must be traveled. The arid, hot environment is dangerous in itself. 15 minutes in the heat (greater than 110 F) can be disabling, so never attempt to walk out. Exposing your skin to the sun can speed up the dehydration process, wear your hat, sunglasses, cover your skin as much as possible and drink lots of water. You may not sweat, don't worry, keep drinking water we need a minimum of 1/2 gallon a day, in the desert, I drank at least a gallon sweating very little. The company I worked for near Palm Springs, California would allow us to work 1/2 hour in the hot sun,  then cool off for a half an hour in the shop.

Set up a kit in the trunk, a 72-hour kit is recommended by FEMA and other first responders which is good advice, however, I am an advocate of keeping a 7-day kit available. Planning for 7-days takes just a little more effort than preparing for the shorter term, it is more water and a few more energy bars. With the larger kit of supplies we are prepared in case we have guest riders.

A typical Roadside Breakdown kit.

It's easy to make bad decisions during stressful situations, being prepared with a plan and supplies in the trunk will help relieve worry. Stay calm, think, drink lots of water in any situation, signaling for help when it makes sense, along with staying in the shade or when in the snow stay in the car and remember do not attempt to walk out you won't make it.

Thanks for reading and sharing my blog, leave a comment or a story about your experiences on the road, thankfully very few road trips end with a disaster. When they do that kit of supplies in the trunk is worth its weight in gold. Click on the link below and check out the website, thanks.

Thanks again jacqueslebec  EmergencyKitsPlus.com

Read five ways to assess an emergency situation, how to react, prepare, and maintain control of ourselves.

It is shocking, isn't it?

We are living in a time of intense media coverage of events taking place throughout the world. We are more agitated and more on edge in public places than we have been in many decades. (World War II and the Riots during the 1960s' come to mind.) Reacting to events without thinking and sizing up the situation may be more dangerous than the incident itself. In fact, it may make the situation more threatening than what it really is not only for yourself but others when in a crowded environment. Taking a few seconds to take stock of what is taking place may be the difference between life and death. Our fight or flight response has a tendency to overwhelm us, we assume the worse and enter into a near panic. It is our natural instincts taking over, however, we better serve ourselves when we take a few seconds to evaluate the situation, make a plan, then following through. Running without thinking is not a strategy, it's a mass panic. We witness so much violence on television and movies that when we go out for the night it is always in the back of our minds. Slowing down situations is a strategy employed by many people in all walks of life, sometimes it is evident by those around us and other times it is not.

During one particular incident it was:

An interesting event happened during last year's Super Bowl (2016/2017). It was not the commercials or the halftime show, but with a few seconds of the game remaining; Tom Brady displayed the behavior while the game was in overtime. It was one of the last plays of the game. With the score tied, the entire team was full of energy and ran bouncing to the line of scrimmage. Except, Tom Brady, turning from the huddle he took a leisurely walk back to his position. He must have been in a period of stress, excitement, ego and everything else that goes into that particular few seconds of a person's life. I've heard it referred to as "23 hours of mind-numbing boredom, one hour of terror". The quarterback looked up at the crowd and then he looked down the field, he assumed his position. They made the play and went on to win, it appeared to me he slowed the game down, assessed the situation, got comfortable with it and executed the plan successfully.

In an emergency situation or a period of high stress, it is a good habit to get into, to slow the situation down. Slow it down in your mind and take stock of all around you. It appeared that's what Tom Brady did. I've done it, I was taught that in my flight deck training in the Navy. It's good advice for any emergency situation. Although, it's a hard behavior to conjure up when a situation is highly stressed.

Perceived threats are sometimes just as dangerous as real ones, people will sometimes panic when there is no incident at all. One that comes to mind is the old adage about screaming fire in a movie theater, it has actually happened where viewers were trampled escaping the false alarm. Sometimes we simply react with the crowd, whether it is in our sub-conscience, or an actual contagious response to our natural instincts to being threatened, we are definitely mob directed at times. During these types of events, it is more difficult to stop and take stock of the situation, it is to our advantage to teach ourselves to be perceptive under any situation.  By taking a deep breath while taking in all that is happening around us as we are scanning for a way out gives ourselves an advantage. At the least, it may make us realize that charging into a crowd from behind is not a controlled response.

Disasters occur is correct.

Disasters occur every place in the world, following are 5 ways to ensure your safety and that of those around you:

1) Take stock of what is happening, make sense of what is taking place, are there injuries? Look for down power lines, ruptured utility lines (gas), or damaged infrastructure. Take charge if no one else is, keep people from dangerous situations, enlist bystanders who have a tendency to think things are under control if a lot of people are present.

2) Get help, and be distinct about it, do not shout obscure directions such as "what are you doing just standing there!" Be specific such as "You Call 911, get help." While waiting for the emergency response do everything possible for the afflicted until it arrives.

3) Assess the surrounding environment, look for smoke, gases, and fumes, if the source cannot be secured the victims must be moved to a safe location.

   a) If a fire is present, move all victims to a safer location, let the fire spread; a human life is more important.
   b) If the incident is an automobile accident look for leaking liquids, smoke,    flames, and pools of gasoline, remove the victims as rapidly as possible to a      safe location.
    c) An electrocution dictates extreme caution, if a person is laying close to downed electrical lines move the lines with a non-conducting device, a                  branch, broomstick or a piece of cut wood. Do not touch the victim when laying across the lines, you will be electrocuted as well.

4) Determine who among the injured are the most at risk and tend to those persons first, this is where our emergency kits come in, go to the trunk and get a first aid kit, or our 7-day disaster kit. If a first aid kit is not available torn towels, shirts, and handkerchiefs will all serve as emergency bandages to stop heavy bleeding.

5) Exercise your self-awareness, it is tempting during emergency situations to attempt to go beyond our knowledge, if we do not know how to perform a tracheotomy, we should not attempt it, wait for the emergency personnel. Tend to those bleeding, make sure the casualties are breathing, and remain calm as tending to them. When the paramedics arrive our job is complete, but hang around they may want to talk with you. Do not attempt tasks that are beyond our abilities or knowledge, do the best we can is the rule of the day.
 
(Parents follow this Link to learn how to react to 12 emergency situations.)

It's my experience that evaluating the situation is a natural reaction during and after an earthquake. Typically the ground starts to shake and when it's finished we look at whoever is nearby and say with a surprise in our voice "did you feel that? Was that an earthquake?" It is sometimes hard to tell the difference between an earthquake and an out of balance wash machine. Still, I think if a "big one" happens a "what happened" moment will still arrive.

A Tornado, wildfire, hurricane or flood normally give at a minimum a short notice. By taking a short one or two-second pause, and taking a deep breath to allow ourselves to see what's happening, allows us to determine a course of action, then executing that plan has the potential to save lives.

President Bush exhibited the same behavior on 9/11. He was reading a book to grade schoolers. He received the message that the Twin Towers were attacked then finished reading the book. He then got up and went to deal with the horrendous crisis. It's a good tool to put in your box.

Thank you for reading and sharing my blog, staying under control during stressful situations takes practice. It is achievable to attain that level of control with mind planning, placing ourselves in a trying situation mentally and telling ourselves to take a few seconds. We react to events according to our training, humans do that naturally, we call it second nature. It won't happen if we are not aware of the need for training ourselves for a controlled personal response. I'd like to hear your comments. Have you had a few seconds when time seemed to freeze? Thanks for reading.

jaquesandkate   emergencykitsplus.com

Halloween, candles, jack-o-lanterns it's that time of year to raise our self-awareness to avoid a home fire.

It's that time of year again.

During the Holiday season, the potential for a house fire is increased with candles as one of the main causes. It is a busy time of year, an exciting one for the kids which may raise the chances of a mishap.  With a few precautions, the fire threat may be reduced for each holiday, with Halloween a week away here are a few tips to make it safe:

* While celebrating Halloween flame retardant materials are the best choice for making costumes, it takes quite an effort to burn some of these materials. None will burst into flames when close to an open flame. Avoid costumes with long flowing fabric or numerous tattered ends.

* Costumes that cover the head must have the ability for the wearer to see, ensure the eye holes are large and easily seen through. The hearing is every bit as important as well, be certain the headpiece is designed with ear holes that are not covered with heavy fabric or other materials.

* Pumpkins can be illuminated with the use of artificial candles or solar lights, one advantage is they won't be blown out with a breeze or slight rain. Avoid candles with flames, there is really no need to use them. But if candles are used supervise children at all times, use long stemmed matches to light the candle, a utility lighter is a good choice as well. Jack-O-Lanterns look great on the front steps as trick or treaters approach the entry, but that is not a good place for one with an open flame. Keep them out of the way of the kids, off to the side of the steps, placement on the lawn is a poor spot, as is anywhere the children may be able to approach them.

* Flashlights should be carried by everyone going door to door, water resistance or better yet waterproof products are an excellent choice, Halloween is rained on often.

To see and be seen is the goal on Halloween.

* The Decorations we use during the haunted night invite combustion, straw scarecrows, bunting made of dried cornstalks, dried flowers, and crepe paper are all highly flammable. Keep them a distance from not only open flames include heaters, and light bulbs on that list as well.

* Exit routes are important also, be certain all avenues out of the house are clear, with a smoke-filled house avoidance of lit candles is something most of us would rather not contend with. Keep all escape routes clear, don't block doors from the outside, and don't create trip hazards. If cords must be run across walking paths, whether indoors or out, tape them to the floor with duct tape making sure they cannot be snagged by the toe of a shoe.

* Smoke alarms need to be looked at, it is custom for us to change the battery on New Years Day, it's a good thing to do. It takes a minute or two to stop and check each one in the house, while we're at it the CO2 monitor needs checking as well.

* Instruct the kids on what to do if they catch on fire, stop, drop, and roll, practice the procedure until they know it well.

I have caught on fire, it is a confusing thing to take place, I was accidentally doused with gasoline, it's a long story. I walked past a smudge pot (it's a diesel-fueled heater used in orchards to raise the air temperature.) the flame leaped 4 feet and pow I was on fire. It's easy to panic, I have been around a lot of fires but being on fire is a totally different experience. My co-worker grabbed me and rolled me in the dirt, most likely saving me from serious burns, I was not injured.

Let's take a look at candles:

* Make it your job to be the last one to bed, on your way blow out all of the candles throughout the house, the wax will burn when the temperature rises to the correct level and it happens quickly. (That has also happened to me) Pets have been known to knock them over, people getting up in the middle of the night have done so as well.

* Candles must be kept a minimum of 1 foot from any flammable materials, measure with the candle laying down, clear the space 1 foot from the wick all of the ways around the center point. Avoid placing them on railings that may allow them to drop down a stairwell or into a dry yard.

* Wide based are best, a low center of gravity will offer more stability making tipping over more difficult. Be certain they are not flimsy and rest on or in a secure holder free from clutter and debris. Keep them away from the candy dish and loose wrappers.

* Light them carefully, long hair, drooping costumes, and loose clothing need to be paid particular attention to.

* Don't burn them all of the ways down to the holder or the base, the melted wax at the bottom may very well ignite.

* Candles should never be used if an oxygen tank is in use. Pure oxygen penetrates fabrics taking up the spaces between the threads causing an extreme fire potential, one spark and the material will light rapidly with no time to get out of the garment. Cotton is bad, but the blended materials are worse due to consisting of nylon, and other synthetic highly flammable material, they basically melt into the skin.

* Be ready with plenty of batteries, lanterns, and flashlights to be used in case of an electrical outage, don't use candles for light. Most of us have a few lights set up year-round for power interruptions, check them for batteries and that they operate. Keep them in a spot that is easy to get to and it's a good idea to make that their permanent year-round home.

* Never leave lit candles and children at home together alone,  the potential for disaster is immense. We hear about tragic incidences every year relating to kids starting home fires when home alone with lighted candles, just avoid it. Don't make it known where the matches are kept, preferably up high or in a locked cabinet.

* Micro-waved popcorn is fine, avoid allowing children to prepare foods on the range top if an adult is not available to supervise. Hot oil, a hot stove top, and children playing nearby is a catastrophe' in the making. Adults unwittingly cause stovetop fires often, and we're the ones that are supposed to know what we are doing. Let's not place our kids in that position, it could affect them the rest of their lives.

Here are a few eye-openers:

First, the peak month for home fires started by candles is the month of December, it's also the peak of our holiday season.

Next, it is surprising to me that 33% of home fires are caused in the bedroom, many by candles, a very good reason to test the smoke alarm just outside the bedroom door.

Last more than 1/2 of all candle fires start because they are set too close to flammable materials.

A single burning candle. 

Candles are pretty and fun to watch when lit, with just a few precautions we are able to make them safe also, the safest position for them to be in is to not be lit. That's a little too much to ask, total avoidance is not a necessity as with everything else in life moderation is best. A few minutes before retiring for the evening making sure all of the flames are out, the matches are securely put away, and instructing the children of the dangers all go a long way in keeping this a safe Halloween.

Thanks for reading and sharing my blog, Halloween is a lot of fun, the kids get excited about the costumes, and most of the time it is 100% tragedy free. it is prudent to remind ourselves of the inherent dangers that are present. Raising our awareness is healthy, when we go in with our eyes wide open we are at the advantage.

Reminder: we set our clocks back on the First Sunday of November, that is one week from this weekend. My daylight savings blog will be posted shortly before that date.

Thanks again jacquesandkate  emergencykitsplus.com

What do worms eat in a worm farm? Learn how to build a worm farm with videos in this blog, c'mon let's do it!

Worms are a simple complicated small animal, hard workers
most of us don't realize they are underfoot working hard.

This blog is an explanation on how I construct Worm Farm bins from easily obtainable plastic totes, the same ones we purchase for storage of our Christmas decorations. They are available at all hardware stores and many big box stores, it is best to purchase a set from the same store due to differences in manufacturing. A bin may be rated as an 18-inch box at two different outlets and because of the manufacturing methods the lids are not interchangeable, and they will not nestle together properly. Both are directly related to the success of the colony. Purchase the darkest color possible, do not use clear boxes worms don't do well in the light.

Use new bins, I have three used bins that I am now using, they were a challenge to clean properly. They were difficult to clean because I did not know what was in them, these had dry goods in them for many years in my neighbors' garage, he tossed them in the trash heap and I rescued them. If you do choose to use containers that stored something else, clean them well, and perform the "triple rinse".

One of the totes had a problem, after cleaning it and setting it up to receive the first group of Red Wigglers I added them in. They were obviously avoiding one corner of the bin, it was a space about 4"x4", the bin is 20"x24". The affected area was not large in comparison. I decided to feed the worms at the opposite end of the enclosure and as the castings were produced move them into that corner, burying it. That worked, it was about a year ago and today the colony is thriving with a few thousands of worms in it. I did not clean the bin completely and unfortunately did not find out until the worms rejected it, that's part of Vermiculture.

A typical worm farm constructed of
plastic totes, notice the cups and the
drip pan under the boxes.

So let's get going on building some worm bins:

We need two totes, they will both be built identically alike, they work together. The tools you will need are

1- A drill motor.

2- 1/4 inch drill "bit"

3- A marker suitable to be seen on plastic and

4- A straight edge 2-4 feet long.


5- We need spacers to place under the bin for air flow. Nothing fancy, just equal size spacers, old children's blocks work great, as do empty medicine bottles. Paper cups were used in the photo above.

The first thing we do is to set the bin on a flat table of comfortable height, remove the lid and flip the box so the bottom is facing towards the sky or ceiling. Holes need to be "laid out" and drilled, it is recommended no less than 20 holes on the bottom, I more than double that. There are 4 important requirements for raising worms, Water, Bedding, Food, and abundant Air. Warm air accumulates in the bin, rising to the top and out the holes, the natural draft draws fresh cool air in through the bottom holes, proper aspiration will be achieved when the holes in the bottom equal the holes in the top.

The Lid laid out for holes.

The top and bottom should have the same amount
of air holes.

Laid out with 2-inch centers, the bin above is ready for the holes, drill at each intersection. Make holes in the center of the squares on the lid until an equal number as the bottom.

The inlet must equal the same total open area on the top and bottom or the air may stall in the box. In this 18 inch box, I laid out and drilled 45 holes, on the bottom they are on 2-inch centers. Start on one edge of the box, place a mark 3 inches from the edge of the box from all 4 sides, a small dot will do. Next, draw a line from one dot to the next forming a square on the bottom. Determine how many holes you choose to drill, some commercial boxes have 100 or more holes, I feel 30-40 is an optimal amount. Determine in the square the spacing of the holes, draw the lines the long side and the narrower ends, measure the desired spacing draw the lines and at every intersection drill a hole. Now let me toss a wrench in the works, determine how many holes you want and eyeball them, no measuring just drill 30 to 40 holes randomly, you, and the worms will be OK with that. I laid out and drilled the holes for demonstration purposes, normally I don't go to great pains to lay the holes out, I draw a few lines and begin to drill, I do it that way because if I don't the holes have no symmetry at all, I am not artistic in the least. Now take out your pocket knife and knock the "Irish Pennants" from the inside of the bottom.

Second is the lid, In the same manner, lay out the holes on the lid, it's a little more of a challenge due to the reliefs formed in the plastic making the lid not flat. Drill 25 holes in the top, again knock the Irish Pennants from the far side of the lid. For future bins, this lid may be used as a template for the top and bottom. I have a heavy plastic box I constructed a plywood lid for, I drilled the holes in the same pattern as above, I use it as a template.

(This Link will lead you to my video demonstrating how to build worm bins.)

Now we need 20 more holes, these will be drilled on the outer top edge of the box. Measure an inch or more below the outer lip of the box, mark equally spaced marks on the line, drill a hole at each intersection, more holes are better than less. Drill holes around the entire circumference of the container, remove the plastic "burrs" from the inside of these as well.

It is not shown on my video or a photo but the bottom sides need holes drilled as well. 4 inches from the bottom draw a line around the circumference and scribe a mark every 2-3 inches then drill a hole at each spot. I had a bin that the worms were looking sickly, the moisture was correct, the bedding was OK, and they had food. It pointed to a lack of air, I made a decision to drill more holes, it was successful the worms are doing fine

The lid laid out, any pattern will work, the photo above shows the cover of the bin laid out and ready to drill.

Do not use a drill bit over the diameter of 5/16 inch, my nemesis is mice, I had a bad experience with them. I saw a bin floating down the river, being the borderline hoarder that I am, (I am still in the "collector" stage), after several attempts with a rope I got it. It looked like it was a worm bin, how was lucky that? The holes were just a little oversized is all, but heck it'll do just fine. I cleaned it up, made some bedding, added a bit of food and then added some nightcrawlers that I was raising in plastic 5-gallon buckets, there were about 2,000 worms in total. The bin had 1/2 inch holes drilled in it, way too big, but this is how we learn isn't it? The next morning all of the bedding was scattered all over the garage floor and my worms were gone, how many mice were involved? I have no idea, but either a few had big appetites or many had just a sampling, I don't know. I replaced that bin and had to start all over, at the very maximum use 5/16 inch holes, I strongly recommend 1/4 inch, if a worm will fit through them they will work fine.

Make the second box to match the first, we need one to start, in fact, it will be a few months until the second bin is needed, we can wait to make it, I generally do just that. Before adding our worms to the bin there are a few more things to do, add bedding, moisture and a bit of food. Worms literally eat their way through their environment, the bed must be edible for them, several materials can be employed, I will explain how I make mine.

Worm bedding is made up of "Carbon" and "Protein", the carbon consists of organic material such as coconut coir, cotton fiber material, paper, cardboard and tree leaves. The protein consists of foodstuffs, vegetable, some fruit, coffee grounds, tea bags, eggshells, and all other human food. Avoid citrus, hot peppers, an overabundance of fruit, onions, meat, fat, oils, bones and scat from meat-eating animals. What the worms are fed depends on what kind of castings are desired, I do not use animal scat, meat or bones ever due to the possibility of creating Pathogens, when spread on the vegetable garden Pathogens could cause serious illness or worse. Some worm farms exist to compost that type of waste, I use my castings on vegetables, I won't take the risk of contamination.

(This Link will lead to my video demonstrating how to add bedding to the completed totes, one a transfer bin, and the second is a starter bin)

Dried leaves make up most of my bedding, but there are some to avoid: Green Bay leaves, Eucalyptus leaves and Citrus tree leaves are the main ones. I use a large amount of Bay Leaves after they are crunchy dry when green they have an oil on the exterior that may harm the colony. My first choice is Pecan or Black walnut, although any leaves will do fine with the exception of those 3 listed, it's the shiny waxy covering on the leaves that cause the problem with the worms. I have not used Eucalyptus or Citrus, that would be an experiment I don't care to begin. I place the leaves in a large vessel (bucket), I chop up the eggshells as fine as possible and toss them in the bucket, I tear or cut clear cardboard into 1-1/2 inch or smaller pieces, sometimes I will shred them if I can separate the layers of cardboard. I toss in the coffee grounds and the filter, add a few tea bags, I then add water to the bucket, about 1/2 full, mixing the bucket contents by hand and then let the bucket rest for at least 24 hours for the leaves to soak up as much water as possible. The next day I drain the water from the bucket and mix the contents until everything is wet. I always add finely chopped eggshells to the bed, there are two reasons 1) The calcium is a neutralizer, if the bed becomes acidic they will neutralize it. 2) Worms have gizzards, they use the eggs shells to grind their food. It's the same reason I use the leaves, first growth vegetation has a lot of silica in it, sand, they use it in their crops as well. Coconut Coir and Peat Moss work equally well in the bed mixture, they don't have much nutritional value for one and secondly, they have to be purchased. One of the goals of raising worms is to spend the least amount of money as possible, most of us are in this to get to zero waste as inexpensively as we are able to manage. That is actually one of the fun parts about this endeavor, making an initial investment and receiving a return in the form of fertilizer, fishing worms, and soil amendments for a low cost.

A photo showing the top vent holes, an equal number needs to
be drilled on the bottom, 4 inches up.

We have constructed the beginning bin, a piece of cardboard now needs to be laid covering the bottom holes so the worms won't leave through the bottom, cut the cardboard to fit and place it in dry. This is the only time the bottom will have to be blocked, from now on it will only be used when it is time for the worms to move from the bottom bin to the top. The wigglers will consume the cardboard on the bottom, and some of it will compost, by the time the castings are moved from it that bottom shield will be gone. 

One more piece of cardboard will be needed to be placed on top of the bedding to keep it moist A newspaper is preferred by many worm farmers, I use cardboard and a section of the newspaper, I soak them until they are soaking wet. Normally I will let it soak while I feed the worms and add bedding.

On top of the cardboard add compost at any level of decomposition, mixing it with a pint of castings if they are available will "jump start" the composting process. Castings are desirable but if they are not available don't fret, the first few worms will add some and the beneficial micro-organisms will catch up. A layer of organic compost 1 inch thick will not be an obstacle to the colony, they will consume it as well.

(What do the worms eat? Follow this Worm food Link.)

Red Wigglers live above the completely composted organic material, moving between the near compost and the freshly laid bedding above it. It is my goal to imitate the natural environment of the worms, all of my bedding with the exception of shredded paper is cut to the size of leaves. I am fortunate I have time to sit and cut up cardboard with scissors, ripping it up works as well, it is rough on the hands. 

The final step is the bucket of bedding needs to be spread over the compost on the bottom to form a 6-inch layer of bedding. Place a small amount of food on one end of the bin, don't bury it, cover it. I use the coffee filters (used) laying one under the food and one covering the food then cover this with the leaves on the bottom. Be certain the bedding is moist, take a handful and squeeze it, two drops of water shows it is the correct level. After a short while with experience moisture content is easily evaluated by touch and sight. Symptoms of too much moisture is excessive condensation on the inside of the lid, and an extreme amount of leachate in the drip pan under the box.

Under the box place spacers, I show a 2x4 that I split to use, anything as long as they are equal in size will work, we just want an air space. Place a drip pan, a tote lid or plastic sheeting under the box to catch the leachate, it may be used diluted in the garden as well.

Wood blocks are used as spacers in this photo.

Now is when we add the worms, leave them in the center of the bottom, they may be balled up, resist the urge to pull them apart. Set the entire ball in the center on the top, close the lid and don't bother them for seven days, their stress level is high as shown by their being balled up, a normal activity until they relax. There are a number of theories people have on why they ball up, one reason is stress and the reason I leave them alone. A scientist in Norway has done studies about why they do it, his hypothesis is that is how they communicate, it could be so, they do communicate somehow, but that's another blog.

A parting bit of advice, just like Motel Six, leave a light on, the worms won't venture into the light. Some worm farmers have a situation where the worms crawl out of the farm and in the morning are all over the floor. I have found when that happened to me to leave the garage light above the boxes on all of the time. That is not my original idea, I read it online in one of the forums.

Thanks for reading and sharing my blog, leave a comment, suggestion or story, do you raise worms? How do you make your bedding, what do you feed your herd? Let me know, Thanks again.

jacquesandkate EmergencyKitsPlus.com

One step closer to zero waste, Vermiculture, helping to save the planet with worm farms.

The lowly worm, underfoot and un-noticed by most of us they continue on with their thankless tasks in keeping our planet garbage free.

I originally posted this blog during October 2017 one year ago, I have added some updates as well as improved grammar and punctuation. (It has been shortened as well) It is enjoyable to re-write and edit this post as it is one of my passions, Vermiculture is an interesting and rewarding activity to engage in. (Hobby? Sure that's OK, also.)

I am a worm farmer, it is, in my opinion, an important part of my becoming self-reliant as I can be, I raise them for a variety of reasons. This blog is intended to instruct how to start a worm farm, the vessels required to raise them and a few things to pay attention to for the first time when establishing a colony.

This is a photo of the Worm Factory 360, a good choice for a first time farm.

Worm bins may be constructed from a large array of containers, buckets (round or square), wood bins, commercially available setups, and even bathtubs. Containers that nestle together and are easily drilled are the types used by most worm farmers. I have several bins that I raise the worms in:

*In the yard I have 9 raised garden beds are dedicated to raising vegetables, I decided to raise worms in them to enhance the soil. I have no way of knowing for sure how many "head" (ok it's cheesy but) of worms are in each, I began by placing 250 into each box over 3 years ago if they reproduced at a reasonable rate they have multiplied many times, I suspect they now number in the thousands. The boxes are made of reclaimed 2x6 planks of wood, then they were filled with compost from a local nursery, delivered, I make my own compost but I needed 6 yards to fill the raised beds. In these beds, I have Red Wigglers and European Nightcrawlers. The Wigglers live above the mostly decomposed organic matter and directly below the composting material, I make sure there is always a layer of leaves on top of the soil. It provides food for the worms and keeps the weeds under control. The Red Wigglers work around the roots and the soil improving aeration and adding fertilizer in the form of castings.

The European Nightcrawlers perform a different service to the beds, they burrow down as far as 6 feet. They have passages deep into their dens where they take organic material for food. At night they come to the surface to eat, then return to the den when the sun rises. The nightcrawlers do not perform as well as the Red Wigglers as composting worms. If the goal is to produce no organic garbage, zero waste, then Red Wigglers are the species to have. If the goal is to raise fishing worms then nightcrawlers will be a good choice they just don't reduce the waste as rapidly as the Red Worms.

This is a photo of my 4-foot worm farm prior to filling it with organic material, and worms. I built this one on top of a 1/2 inch piece of cardboard to keep the worms from going down. I covered it with an old shower door I found somewhere.


*Another bin of wood construction is 4-foot x 4-foot x 4-foot, with a hog wire front to allow air flow through the mass of organic material composting inside. I have worms in it as well, but they like the raised beds are difficult to determine how many red worms occupy it. I have some nightcrawlers in this compost bin as well, I use this organic material for worm bedding and adding to the garden boxes.

*I have a commercially made worm factory 360, I bought the one with 4 trays, I am happy with it, the learning curve was surprising but with time and patience, it works fine. The learning curve was mostly dealing with when to start moving the worms up to the feeding bins. Its strong point is in aiding with the learning curve of raising worms, it is of a design that the worms move vertically up when the food in a lower box is diminished. The construction makes it easy to learn how worms move around in the bins, they don't typically move up and stay there, they continuously move up and down between the boxes. It is easy to determine how many reds are in the colony which is an asset when feeding time comes. I prefer larger bins, the 360 trays are about 18 inches square, great for a classroom or a limited area, the drawback is limited castings. I like the arraignment but I decided to use plastic bins when I added to the farm due to the increased capacity.

*I have plastic bins that are readily available at any hardware store. I use the 18-inch wide size, they are about 2'6" in length, weight is a consideration when determining the volume, castings are heavy. The bins I have (two sets) weigh about 50 pounds when the finished castings are ready for storage. Smaller bins are available, useful as under the sink units, or in households with limited space. The light plastic bins are easy to work with, inexpensive, and able to withstand the rugged treatment they receive. Used bins are perfectly acceptable to use, a word of warning is to make sure they are cleaned completely unless the contents are well known. I have one set that has been reclaimed, the results are mixed.

Cheap and durable, plastic totes make excellent worm farms.

*My neighbor was making a dump run, and as is usual I look through the stuff looking for useful items. (Ahem, is anyone with me on this?.) Useful stuff I found, three of those heavy grey plastic boxes, none had a lid, I don't know where these come from but I see them everywhere. I felt fortunate in being able to trade some of my stuff for these. The holes were drilled, the bin washed, and a plywood lid was made, I then set it up to receive the worms. It was obvious from the start the population was avoiding one corner of the setup. I watched them for a month, things take time in a worm farm, they would not go near that corner and it appeared my population was not increasing. A sign of a healthy colony is an abundance of newly hatched young and numerous egg casings, I saw neither. I had a choice of abandoning the box, cleaning it and try again when it became time to transfer or persevere and avoid that corner. I chose the second, food was no longer placed near that entire end of the box and as the castings were produced I moved them to cover that corner, it worked, my colony is now healthy and thriving. The bin is now 1/2 full of castings and will need to be set up to transfer in a month or so. I started that herd with around 150 worms, there are now thousands in the box, it's been just over one year. Raising worms is a never-ending educational experience, I am responsible for the colony and take that seriously, the worms depend upon me.

I first attempted vermiculture 10 years ago, it's one of those things that I thought I knew a lot about, I mean after all worms live in the dirt right? Dirt is everywhere right? Doesn't that mean get a bunch of dirt then toss a handful of worms in and viola there is a worm farm? Whoa not so quick, it does not work like that, Red Wigglers do not live in the dirt, European Night Crawlers do, sort of. I did everything wrong when I put that first farm together. I dug a hole in the ground and lined it with black plastic, I then got a wheelbarrow full of topsoil and dumped it in. My supply of nightcrawlers was purchased at the local bait shop, 4 tubs, I dumped them in without a second thought. Located on the North side of the house it overheated and dried out. I did not have a clue that they needed to be fed, or for that matter what to feed them. I took me one month to realize it was not working and was never going to.

(Follow this Link to my video demonstrating how to build a worm bin from a plastic tote.)

Enter the learning curve, read, read, and ask questions, for instance, more moisture is better than not enough, how to judge moisture content comes mostly from experience. There are available moisture level detectors, and many worm farmers use the squeeze drip method, holding a handful of bedding and when squeezed if the moisture is correct two drops of water will drip.

Moist is good, damp not wet, I judge mine by looking the bedding over, feeling it and looking for signs of too much water. Two signs are excessive condensation gathering on the lid of the bin, another is an overabundance of water gathering in the collection pan under the box. A good indicator I use is if there are eggs in the farm, it denotes it as being a healthy environment for them.

We all learn what a worm egg looks like, how they are formed and how prolific the worms are. There is a lot to it, however, after a short while, it is entirely manageable. It will take a few months to fill a bin with castings, then when it is about 3/4 full we place the second bin on top. When most of the colony has moved upstairs it is time for separating the remaining individuals from the castings and placing them in the feeder tray completing complete the cycle and starting over again.

Below are three points why I began worm farming:

 1)  For the Castings, worm manure or as I prefer to call it and all other feces "Scat". It is rich in natural nitrogen in a form the plants are able to use immediately, there is no risk of burning the plants as there is with synthetic nitrogen. During the planting season, I mix compost and castings in a 50/50 mix, I place the plants in the open hole then fill it with my planting mix. I add castings once a year, after they are planted I use worm tea. Castings are placed in new worm bins along with the food to jump-start the decomposition process.

 2)  Worm "Tea" is made with the castings placed into a one-gallon paint strainer bag available at all hardware stores. I place 1-1/2 pints in the fabric bag then submerge it in 4 gallons of water that is aerated to support the micro-organisms in the scat. Compressed air is pumped into the water and let to agitate for 24 hours, upon completion it must be used within 4 days. After that time period, the brew will go anaerobic and the beneficial microbes will die off.

(Follow this Link to my video demonstrating how to make worm tea.)

 3)  I have a goal to reach zero garbage, there will always be plastic, glass and shiny colored cardboard, it all has to go to a landfill, unfortunately. The organic food leftovers are another matter, they do not have to go to the dump. Likewise, with brown cardboard, newspaper, and green waste, it is all valuable in the organic garden.

I did not talk about what the bedding consists of, what to feed the worms, or what bugs are beneficial in the farms. My intent is to introduce others to the world of Vermiculture perhaps realizing that it may seem like a small effort to reduce waste, but could be huge if everyone did it. Worms perform a valuable service, they are used to reduce manures, waste wood, cardboard, newspaper and perhaps one of the most interesting functions is waterless toilets.

It surprised me how attached to the colonies I have become, I endure many jokes, ribbing, and comments about my eccentricities, all in all, that's just fine with me, it's fun.

Thank you for reading and sharing, I enjoy raising worms, it's said we have to be a little eccentric to do so and that's OK, the organic fertilizer is far superior to the commercial synthetic stuff, the results seen in the plants is amazing. I made a video on how to construct the bin if you desire please watch it at this link.

jacquesandkate emergencykitsplus.com

self-awareness, how important are self-awareness skills, natural disasters and self-awareness meld.

Yes, mistakes are all about learning. I tell my grand-kids "That's how we learn,
by making mistakes", but there are no mistakes then, are there?

Each month has many special days, today October 18, 2018, is National "No Beard Day", OK, I can celebrate that. Be "Bald and Free" day was celebrated on the 12th of this month, I can celebrate that as well.

The theme for the entire month has been dedicated to "Awareness", I will expand that to "Self-Awareness", let us get started.

Awareness is one of the Trinity for survival, accepting personal responsibility and self-reliance complete the trio. Being aware of our personal limitations, as well as what we excel at are instrumental in surviving a catastrophic event. There are many parts of what makes up our individual knowledge, and skills, normally it is an ongoing learning process that takes place during our entire lifetime. Proactive measures taken well before a disaster strikes is what will determine how well we will survive, that is where Self-Awareness comes in.



October is Awareness month

We all have a level of being "self-aware", but to put that in a practical and usable concept is not always cut and dry. We must be truthful with ourselves while declaring our shortcomings, and those things we know well. It is difficult to take an inventory of our knowledge and how it relates to our emergency planning, is it something we jot down in our family disaster plan? It is not a task to declare outright months before something takes place, but instead a conversation that takes place between survivors during a trying period. Everyone is good a something, many things actually, but no-one is good at everything.

Survival during a Calamity is a community activity, humans are social animals and we rely upon each other even during the best of times. Co-operation during an event between neighbors, friends, and family is essential for our survival. 60% of us do not have any emergency plans or supplies on hand at all, 30% of us do, most have supplies for their own family members. That places the people that took the time and effort to plan and store supplies to be leaned on to assist the others. Self-awareness is realizing beforehand that this will take place, and when it is accepted that it is a fact of life it makes dealing with the event a bit easier. Federal agencies that are responsible for reacting to national emergencies recommend we each have a three-day emergency kit. I advocate having a seven-day backpack.

Included in the kit should be a copy of the family emergency plan, it will raise the self-awareness of the people affected and they will know what actions they are responsible for. When a plan is constructed well in advance of an event it can be practiced, modified, and discussed adding further to the group's confidence. The plan will also inspire us to learn more about the subjects we are tasked with, for instance, water purification. Perhaps stirring our curiosity to explore further survival skills and techniques, preparing for disaster melds into our lifestyles. Build or purchase a kit, know what is in it, and how to use everything. Building the kit ourselves raises our level of awareness, it takes considerable thought to put together supplies for survival during an unpredictable and unknown catastrophic event.

Build your own, or purchase a commercially prepared one.

Only the person building the kit knows what to store in it, that is one of the advantages of putting one together ourselves. There are numerous websites, and blogs with suggestions on what we all will need during such an occurrence. Some lists are loaded with self-protection, some subscribe to leaving town, and others are dedicated to staying at home as long as possible. It all becomes overwhelming after a short while, it is confusing and as human nature dictates, we are reluctant to the idea of not doing it correctly. Self-Awareness is about that confidence, we must simply prepare in a manner that we are most comfortable with. Prudence tells us to realize that we are not attempting to prepare to carry on life with all of the luxuries we are accustomed to, 80% is a good goal, but not practical. Awareness of that fact is also instrumental in aiding to our survival, everyone's needs are different, no one else can prepare for us. There is no correct or incorrect way to prepare as long as mobility, versatility, and planning are all part of the mix. The kit should be of the proper weight to handle without trouble. Versatile enough to be able to adapt to not one but however many disasters our locale may have the potential of being affected by. Planning will make it all logical, we have a tendency to react to emergencies as we have been trained, practicing the plan pays off.

(Follow this Link to EmergencyKitsPlus.com)

Start today, right now, FEMA has templates available (Link), I post this link in many of my blogs. Include the entire household in the planning, buy-in from the younger children and teenagers is critical to having a successful plan.

I read a story recently of a Lady (and Mother) who took it upon herself to write an emergency plan, she filled out the template, bought the kits, and put everything together perfectly. One mistake was made, she did not include her family, when the first practice came the family was taken by surprise, they had no idea a plan was in existence. Luckily it did not come to light during an evacuation, she was able to re-group after realizing what had taken place. Her suggestion in the blog is to make sure to include everyone on the planning from the beginning. That caused a substantial rise in her awareness level as well as her families, I'm confident she enacted an excellent plan which has the potential to save her families lives.


We are aware of how long our commute takes normally when the baby takes a nap, most of our day to day activities are predictable. When it comes to our awareness of being prepared for the mega-quake or tsunami that has been predicted for many decades 60% of us drop the ball. Granted 30% of any population will take the path of skepticism and never accept warnings or allow scientific evidence to alter their anchored ideas. That's fine and understandable, we all have our own personalities and see the world in a different light. However it is important for us to at least be aware of the possibility that something may happen, and if it does happen it is to our advantage to recognize it when it arrives at our door. Awareness is in that aspect more important than building a kit or putting a family plan together, having the where with all to have a quart of water and which way to run would be the basis of this.

OK, sometimes we can predict when they will take a nap.

A problem that becomes evident during an event is that help does not arrive in a timely manner. Effectively that places us in the position of being a victim, just the opposite of being self-reliant, and we are then in the place of zero awareness. Frankly being a victim is the polar opposite of what the 60% has in mind, it makes no sense to me for them to procrastinate in their survival awareness. The first responders are there to assist us in our survival, some need more than others, the elderly, handicapped, and disabled are a few. The rest of us should be aware of that and be prepared for our own survival until help arrives, healthy people will be at the end of the list.

Being aware of the basics of any natural disaster could be a life-saver as well, Flood water is dangerous, we need to know how dangerous and what makes it so. Hurricanes create Tornadoes, understanding where and what intensity are vitally important as well. A simple list of possible catastrophic events that we may suffer is a giant step ahead, again it raises our self-awareness bolstering our confidence when an event takes place. Being aware of the threats that are created by it are important as well, snakes in floodwater, carbon monoxide in the basement, and the knowledge of the possibility of gas or sewage leaks may save our lives.

I am worried I have added to the overwhelming feeling that many of us in this niche provoke in people, good grief you may be saying another one of those guy's. Actually not, my advice to my grandkids is when they are new to an environment to enter it with their "Eyes wide open", it's also the name of a movie. It is my attempt to make their awareness as natural as possible, which I believe it does, my advice to all of us is just that. Go into it with your eyes wide open, it explains everything I have written here. It does pay dividends, one of my grandsons worked for Disney World in Orlando, he moved there from California, he lived two blocks from the massacre at the Pulse nightclub. Though he was on the street the night it happened, he evaluated the situation, turned around and went home, he was scared but he made sense of the situation on the run.

We each may decide for ourselves if a bunker is in our future.

That's what this blog is all about, being aware of our surroundings, aware of the potential threats both predictable and not. We generally focus on huge disasters, but they don't have to be for them to be a life-altering event for us. Tornadoes as horrible but they are generally do not involve an entire state in their destructive path, but the entire community is involved in the recovery. Hurricanes and flooding are more widespread often they do cripple an entire state. Civil uprising's are local, it is rare for a riot to spread into an entire city, rarer yet to involve other cities nearby. On a more personal level a disaster could be the slamming of a finger in a car door, having a terrible toothache, or being told of a devastating disease are examples. It doesn't have to include hundreds of people to be a disaster, just ourselves will do. Catastrophes are at times more dependent on our reaction to them than the severity of the actual event if we are aware they may happen our reaction will be more tempered if we are prepared we will be more confident. Self-Awareness is the key, gathering as much information as possible we are then able to go into it with our eyes wide open, and that will see us through anything.

Thanks for reading and sharing my blog, Self-Awareness, Self-reliance and accepting Personal responsibility are the keys to surviving a natural disaster, going into everything with our eyes wide open doesn't hurt a thing.

jacquesandkate EmergencyKitsPlus.com